How to Prune A Fruit Tree

One of our most commonly asked questions is how to prune fruit trees. With most people nervous about undertaking this task, we always encourage people to ‘have a go’ themselves. Whether you’re pruning apple trees, pear trees or cherry trees, it’s not as hard as it may seem.

The reason it’s important to prune fruit trees is to let in sunlight and improve air circulation by removing congested and crossing branch growth. In the long run, this helps to produce better quality fruit in appearance, flavour and size! The branches will also become stronger, meaning they’ll support better crop yields.

Generally, the rule for pruning most fruit trees is little and often (rather than having to take drastic action every ten years!). If you would prefer to watch how to prune, this video by Nick Dunn gives a simple guide on how to prune your young fruit trees during the winter months.

In the blog below, we have outlined a basic guide to give you the confidence you need for fruit tree pruning.

Tools You’ll Need for Pruning

• Hand pruners
• Loppers
• Pruning Saw
• Gloves
• Eye Protection

When is the Best Time to Prune Fruit?

The answer to this question depends on the fruit.

Apples and Pears

Prune in late winter (November to March) whilst the trees are dormant. This encourages growth, shapes trees and makes it easier to structure.

Stone Fruit Trees

Prune stone fruits (like apricot trees and peach trees) in the summer after fruiting or early spring before buds swell. Helps to prevent diseases like Silver Leaf and Cranker.

Basic Pruning Methods

1. Start by removing dead or diseased wood. By cutting out these branches, you save any problems that might occur, like the disease spreading.
2. If you need to shorten a branch, cut above an outward-facing bud, away from the centre of the tree. This helps new branches grow in the right direction and prevents overcrowning.
3. Remove thin shoots or crowded shoot growth. This will help the tree focus energy on growing large branches.
4. Side and lateral branches should be spaced out and not crowded, so remove or shorten branches that grow inwards.

Container Fruit Tree Pruning Methods

All of our container-grown fruit trees will have already been pruned to create a specific form, and we will mark this on the white tag label (bush, half standard, cordon). Usually, they are two years old as they grow in the field for one year and in the container for a second year.

Bushes

Bushes are one of the most popular and traditional shapes for gardens. They are topped (cutting the central leader/stem) after the first year at 75cm. This encourages branching, making the tree easier to manage and the fruit easier to pick.

For bushes, we would advise reducing the length of the main branches by about a third when planting. Then taking out any smaller branches that are beginning to grow inwards. It is also a good idea to remove any ‘feathers’ that may be growing from the lower part of the central stem beneath the branches. These are unlikely to be productive and will take valuable nutrients from the main crown of the tree.

During the first fruiting year, remove most of the fruit to enable the tree to focus its energies on establishing a good root system and strong formative branch structure.

Half Standards

We would advise reducing the length of the main branches by about a third when planting and taking out any smaller branches that are beginning to grow inwards. It is also a good idea to remove any ‘feathers’ that may be growing from the lower part of the central stem beneath the branches, as these are unlikely to be productive and will take valuable nutrients from the main crown of the tree.

During the first fruiting year, remove most of the fruit to enable the tree to focus its energies on establishing a good root system and strong formative branch structure.

Patio Trees

Patio trees are unlikely to need much pruning, other than perhaps a bit of ‘tidying up’ of the tips. Thin the fruit in very productive years, as heavy crops can break the small branches.

Family Trees

Family trees are shaped as bushes, so they require a similar style of pruning to bushes as outlined above. It may, however, be necessary to remove the fruit on the branches of the weaker variety to keep the tree balanced, or prune back a variety if it is noticeably stronger.

Cordons

Cordons are hard pruned to maintain as a column with fruiting spurs all the way along. To ensure sunlight reaches the full length, they are better grown at a 45-degree angle and supported with a stake or on wires. The pruning of cordons need not be very precise, just snip off tips back to two or three leaves or buds each year.

Step Overs

The key to maintaining step-overs is to prune off any vertical spurs back to two or three leaves or buds each year. We grow step-overs on dwarfing rootstocks, M27 (apples) and Quince C (pears), as they don’t need much vigour to do well.

Espaliers

The espaliers we grow have two tiers with a leader to grow on further tiers if desired. The hard pruning required to develop the horizontal tiers means that this form is only suitable for apples and pears. Stone fruit, such as plums, are tip bearing and will not produce fruiting spurs along the branches or respond well to such pruning. The old saying with espaliers is ‘a tier a year,’ so to grow another tier, it is best to top the leader at the required height in the winter to encourage new soft growth.

The best time of year to prune existing tiers is late June to early August, when the new growth is flexible and can be easily tied down to the wires. Cut back vertical spurs to two or three leaves or buds.

It’s possible to grow four or even five tiers.

Fan Trained

This is a more informal shape that involves tying back the shoots and a lighter approach to pruning. A light pruning of tips every August and tying shoots back against a frame is all that is needed.

How to Prune Bare Root Trees (Formative Pruning)

Maiden, Newly Planted Trees

If planting maiden trees for standards, prune off all lower branches and leave the main leader of the tree undisturbed to ‘run on’ the first year. Thereafter, when the tree has reached approx 7′ 6″, a further cleaning up of the stem to 5′ 6″ can take place. The tree will form a natural head over a period of time. In circumstances where a maiden tree is over 6′ 6″, the tree can have its top pruned out at planting time. This will encourage the development of side branches in the first year.

Two-year Straight Lead Trees

After planting, any tree over 6′ 6″ can be topped off at this height, and all side branches can be removed up to 4′ 6″ in year one and 6′ 6″ at the end of year two.

Where a straight lead is smaller, then treat it as a maiden.

Standard Trees

After planting, reduce all branches in the head of the tree by one-third. This will reduce planting shock and encourage the formation of fruiting laterals.

How to Prune Mature Trees (Maintenance Pruning)

Very little pruning should be carried out in the early years after the formative pruning explained above. It is better to wait for the tree to crop before pruning.

Apple Trees and Pears

When you do prune, remove a small proportion of the branches back to the main stem, leaving a well-balanced tree. This is better than a snipping approach around the perimeter. This lets in light and air, provides an opportunity for the tree to produce new productive branches, and reduces pest and disease opportunities.

If a variety tends to be biennial (cropping every other year) prune in the ‘on’ year only in the summer before the end of June, when the tree is heavily laden with fruit. This will help to promote fruit buds for the next year and increase the size and quality of fruit in the current season.

Stone Fruit

All stone fruit should be pruned as little as possible, restricting this only to when the leaves are on the tree and better still, after the fruit has been picked. This reduces the risk of bacterial disease. Pruning should primarily remove damaged or diseased branches. Remember that too much heavy pruning when the tree is young will only encourage vegetative growth rather than fruit buds.